Where the Buffalo Roam 2026
Just climbed this! Not as mossy / lichen / dirty as we thought it might be, it's pretty clean! Also not really any loose rock on the pitches, just loose rock on some of the belay ledges. Would not recommend climbing this if another party is ahead (since it's very easy to accidentally kick rocks down while belaying or rappelling). But if you're the only ones on the route, it's quite safe!
Only bummer is P4 is covered in rodent piss / shit :/ Rappels were pretty good (all rappels have chains, some of the belay anchors don't have chains but you don't rap on them). Belay ledges were all pretty good. Last P9 pitch is worth doing, second best pitch on the route!
Gear
- 70m rope (needed for rap)
- Recommend 18-19 draws to climb P6 to upper anchor, or can bring just 16 draws if climbing standard way, or 20 draws if linking P2-3
- Make sure to have at least 4 single alpines and 2 double alpines among your selection of draws
- Radios are nice to have, comms a bit tricky sometimes even if not linking
- Longer anchor cords are nice to have
Approach
38 mins at average pace, 0.5 miles, 787 ft gain. Approach as per Born in Time, and just 20 ft below Born in Time, continue traversing right along the cliff face. Continue hugging the cliff face as you cross about three gullies. The wall itself will be very obvious. When in doubt, stay higher up against the cliff face. There's a somewhat traveled trail!
See the full pitch-by-pitch breakdown, gear notes, and rappel sequence on the route page.