Where the Buffalo Roam

Overview

Not as mossy / lichen / dirty as we thought it might be, it's pretty clean! Also not really any loose rock on the pitches, just loose rock on some of the belay ledges. Would not recommend climbing this if another party is ahead of you (since it's very easy to accidentally kick rocks down while belaying or rappelling). But if you're the only ones on the route, it's quite safe!

Only bummer is P4 is covered in rodent piss/shit. Rappels were pretty good — all rappels have chains, though some of the belay anchors don't have chains (but you don't rap on them). Belay ledges were all pretty good. The last pitch, P9, is worth doing — second best pitch on the route!

Gear

• 70m rope (needed for the rap)
• Recommend 18-19 draws to climb P6 to the upper anchor, or just 16 draws if climbing the standard way, or 20 draws if linking P2-3
• Make sure to have at least 4 single alpines and 2 double alpines among your selection of draws
• Radios are nice to have — comms are a bit tricky sometimes even if not linking
• Longer anchor cords are nice to have

Approach

38 mins at average pace, 0.5 miles, 787 ft gain. Approach as per Born in Time, and just 20 ft below Born in Time, continue traversing right along the cliff face. Continue hugging the cliff face as you cross about three gullies. The wall itself will be very obvious. When in doubt, stay higher up against the cliff face. There's a somewhat traveled trail!

Linking Possibilities

Only P2+P3 seemed linkable.

P1: ⭐⭐ 5.7; 13 bolts; ~40m

First two thirds of P1 is pretty nice/clean featured slab. Last bit is a bit mossy but fine.

Walk to P2

From the top of P1, walk the belay ~20 meters to the base of P2. Recommend do not link it, it adds a lot of drag and is tough to communicate.

P2: ⭐⭐⭐ 5.9; 10 bolts; 30m

A pretty fun crack feature! Can link with P3.

P3: ⭐⭐⭐ 5.9; 11 bolts; 30m

Some fun/decent face climbing.

P4: 💣 5.9-; 8 bolts; 30m

Unfortunately this was covered in rodent piss and some poop. Otherwise it could be somewhat fun. It traverses sharp right — use your double alpines. Even with double alpines, I somehow got tons of drag.

P5: ⭐⭐⭐ 5.8; 10 bolts; 33m

Quite fun climbing up another bit of a crack system!

Walk to P6

Super easy 15 meter walk, easier than the walk to P2. Don't link, just walk it.

P6: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5.10-; 13-19 bolts; 30-36m

The most fun pitch! Really fun, clean, good quality, well featured face climbing!

• Recommendation: Continue past the first anchor for 36 meters total climbing to the second anchor (goes right and then left). Has 18-19 bolts this way, but still all at 5.10-, and positions the belayer better for the P7 crux.
• Original: Stop at the first anchor (13-14 bolts, 30m).

P7: ⭐⭐⭐ 5.10+; 11-16 bolts; ~30m

The crux pitch. I thought it might even be 11-, but maybe if you know the exact moves it's fine. It's just really tough to find the moves. Super well bolted though, and you can aid it — it's just a 5-foot crux. I fell there, even though I got Sisyphus' crux (5.11-) clean, so idk...

P8: ⭐⭐ 5.8 (felt 5.9); 16 bolts; 35m

Kinda licheny, but somewhat featured slab and small feature climbing. Almost 3 stars. Do not link with P9 — it'd be linkable, but there's a lot of loose rocks at the top of P8 that your rope will kick down (I tried it and then immediately came back down and belayed from the top of P8).

P9: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5.10- (felt 5.10); 10 bolts; 30m

Second most fun pitch on the route, and second toughest too! Nice vertical featured climbing, zig-zags left and right somewhat, but the climbing is mostly straight up!

Rappel

Rappelling is pretty straightforward. There's rappel chains on all the anchors you use to rappel.

• R1: Rappel P9 (30m)
• R2: Rappel P8 (33m)
• R3: Rappel P7 - Stop at the upper anchor (only 25m?)
• R4: Rappel P6 - From the upper anchor it's a 34m rappel to the ground
• Walk to top of P5
• R5: Rappel P5 (33m)
• R6: Rappel most of P4 (~30m) - Rappel straight down an overhanging section, you'll find the next rappel anchor climbers left and below the start of P4, somewhat in a gully
• R7: Rappel P3 (~25m)
• R8: Rappel P2 (30m)
• Walk toward top of P1, you'll find the rappel anchor skiers left on a ledge before the cliff drops off
• R9: Rappel P1 (~30m), deposits you 2 mins left of the climb, easy scramble back to the base