Nirvana Jan 2022

📅 Start: 1/6/2022📍 Nirvana
Nirvana Jan 2022

Time log

  • 1:16 PM - Hiking
  • 2:01 PM - Ditching backpacks (46 min hike)
  • 2:45 PM - Climbing
  • 5:04 PM - Hiking back down
  • 5:52 PM - Back at car (48 min hike)

Gear brought

  • Singles #0.3-4
    • A #5 or double #4 could have been useful for P1, but you only use cams for P1 (plus one #3 on P2). Was a little runout without, but was okay, I used every cam including moving 2 cams up.
  • 8 draws (no doubles)
  • 1 webbing in case needed for Juniper tree rappel (existing webbing was okay)
  • 70m rope
    • The 70 was worth it so could rappel P3-2 as one! 60m would have to rappel those individually
  • Didn't bringRadio (not needed)
    • Nuts (not useful)

Overall notes

  • Approach is annoying, lots of off trail, some route finding, takes longer than expected
  • Ditching backpacks and shoes before going around the back to tunnel works well
  • Getting to the tunnel to base of climb is a bit exposed and slabby, definitely want climbing shoes on for that
  • P1 is decent but a bit awkward.
  • P2 is SCARY to lead (slabby and traversy with lots of exposure and tiny hands), Alexis found it fine to follow though.
  • P3 seemed easy to me, once you figure out the mantle move it's not too tough.
  • Bolting is reasonable but still far enough that you'd have some falls.
  • Rappelling with the 70m was nice!