Mile High Club 8/3/2019
Climbed with Liv and Cole and Alexis! Alexis was still getting over a cold, and we were backpacking and camping the night to do Vesper the next morning, so our hiking pace was extra slow, but we still finished ahead of schedule!
- 5:30 start
- 7:30 turnoff, stashing gear
- 7:45 hiking
- 8:30 base
- 12:30 summit
- 1:05 descending
- 3:15 done rappelling
- 3:20 heading back
- 4:00 at packs
- 4:20 hiking to camp
- 5:05 at camp
Alexis and Liv led pitch 2, Liv lead the final pitch 7. Great climbing, definitely felt like an easy 5.10a, the 5.8 finger crack on True Grit seemed at least as tough for me!
Gear
- We had 2 60m ropes, and did double rope rappels on P6 and P1 (didn't skip any anchors)
- I brought 12 quickdraws (6 standard, 6 single alpine), only needed 11 as others said, would have been good with just 3 alpine
Approach
Take the Sunrise Mine Trail to the final switchback before it goes up the steep series of switchbacks.
Near the base, spot the red gully, and make one quick class 4 move up it, and then a short easy class 3 scramble towards the left leads you to the base.
The small class 4 section
Spot out the lone pine tree and go to it... P1 starts just 10 yards beyond it.
Climb
P1
Some juggy and powerful moves at the start, and then more crimpy climbing on the arete. Easiest climbing seems to be just to the right of the arete.
Powerful first moves
Stay just to the right of the arete
Pitch 2
Short pitch with one crux move at the third bolt. Either go straight over the bolt, or off around to the right.
Pitch 3
I believe this one possibly had a slightly odd start, but then it goes up some easier terrain and around some bushy sections.
Looking down from the anchor
Pitch 4
Make sure to stay a bit right on the start... don't go up the leftmost corner as the bolts are more to the right!
Pitch 5
The difficult corner! Some crimpy moves and some power moves. The final move across to the anchor is a bit awkward and tricky too.
Pitch 6
The first moves
Partway up
Some good exposure looking down halfway up
Good exposure!
Pitch 7
A tricky move off the start finishes with nice easier climbing to the summit!
Summit
It's actually pretty big! Great views and plenty of space for a couple groups!
Descent
Rap the route. You'll need a 70 or two 60's for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Don't bother trying to skip raps if you have doubles, too risky for getting the rope caught!
