Three Hour Arete

0
7,399
Max Elevation (ft)
5.10b
Difficulty
🧗 4 pitches📍 Three Hour Buttress
Three Hour Arete

Gear

  • **Rope:** 60m
  • **Cams:** #0.2-2
  • **Cams if pushing grade:** #0.1-3
  • Cams if linking P1-2: #0.2-2 with double 0.3-2?
  • **Cam beta:** Cams only needed for P1-2, P3-4 are all sport
  • **Nuts:** standard
  • **Draws:** 12 draws (8 sport, 4 single alpine)
  • **Radio:** Unknown
  • Crack gloves

Approach

10 minutes.

Overview

Route imageRoute overlay

P1 - 5.10a, 30m

A few stiff face/thin flake moves take one past the bolt and crux (5.9/10a) of the first pitch.  Alternately (easier, watch rope drag) it is possible to go left around the corner and then straight up to gain the lower angle section.  Follow the beautiful low angle lieback corner, traverse right a few feet, then continue up the sweet lieback/jam crack.  Belay at a bolt (plus supplemental gear) or set your own belay before or after.  Long pitch, beautiful climbing.

Can link with P2 with a 70m rope.

Starting P1
Starting P1

P2 - 5.8

Climb up a few feet to a thin crack that traverses out of the corner diagonally to the right.  Gain a nice crack, move up 15' or so, then traverse right onto the face, and continue up over the roof/lip.  Angle back left a bit and climb the face close to the arete, following bolts. The next belay is on a large ledge above with a bolted anchor.

You can leave your trad gear at the top of P2, it's fully bolted past P2.

P3 - 5.9, 20m

Continue up the bolted arete/face to a bolted anchor on the next ledge.

P4 - 5.10cb, 30m

Clip a bolt and commit to the crux mantle (5.10b), continue 30m up the bolted arete/face. (Alternately, continue left after the first bolt for the 5.10d, "Hall Pass" variation, leading to the same anchor)

Resources