The Mythic Wall

5.10-
Difficulty
🧗 6 pitches📍 Mythic Peak
The Mythic Wall

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P1 (5.8, 55m) Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40', pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree.

P2 (5.9+, 45m) Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right into discontinuous corners. Follow these to a large ledge splitting the face.

P3 (5.4, 25m) Walk left then traverse up and left on a loose-looking but solid rock. Belay near another tree below face cracks on the smooth wall.

P4 (5.10-, 40m) Link face cracks up and right (crux). When they end at a L-facing corner pull out right around the corner onto an easy face.

P5 (5.9, 40m) Climb a nice L-facing corner, then pull a roof. Hand traverse left below the next roof into a fun dihedral. Below more roofs move out left to a belay.

P6 (5.7, 20m) Steep flakes lead to the ridgeline.

Pitch 1 - 5.8, 55m

Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40', pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree.

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  • Pitch 1 of Mythic Wall

Pitch 2 - 5.9+, 45m

Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right into discontinuous corners. Follow these to a large ledge splitting the face.

Or Steph says this is only 5.8...

I was a little uncertain I was on the correct route on this pitch, but I think this is the "shallow corner" system. I actually went left from here into an easier corner, but then had to deal with heinous rope drag after I moved back rightward.

  • Pitch 2 of Mythic Wall
  • Near the top of Pitch 2 of Mythic Wall. Steph actually stopped earlier due to rope drag, so this was the start of her 3rd pitch.

Pitch 3 - 5.4, 20-25 m

Walk left then traverse up and left on a loose-looking but solid rock. Belay near another tree below face cracks on the smooth wall.

  • Pitch 3 of Mythic Wall

Pitch 4 - 5.10-/5.10a, 40m

Link face cracks up and right (crux). When they end at a L-facing corner pull out right around the corner onto an easy face.

Steph: An awesome finger crack up the clean face. This is the money pitch (as well as the 10a crux pitch) of the route. I was happy to have my set of offsets for this pitch—offsets work well in this rock due to the wedge-like nature of some of the cracks.

  • Pitch 4 of Mythic Wall
  • Pitch 4 of Mythic Wall

Pitch 5 - 5.9, 40m

Climb a nice L-facing corner, then pull a roof. Hand traverse left below the next roof into a fun dihedral. Below more roofs move out left to a belay.

  • Looking up Pitch 5, which starts with a nice hand crack in a corner to a roof.
  • In this photo, I am pausing at a pretty bouldery 5.9 move to get above the roof. This move seemed a bit harder than 5.9 to me, but probably because it was committing and above gear.
  • The fun stemming corner on the second half of Pitch 5.

Pitch 6 - 5.7, 20m

Steep flakes lead to the ridgeline.

Steph: A short and easy pitch to the arete.

Pitch 7 - 5.6 (part of Green Creek Arete)

  • Looking up toward the top from where Mythic Wall intersects Green Creek Arete.
  • The final steep bit (a couple of 5.6 moves) to the top.

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