Marvin's Ear
📝 Trip Reports (1)
🗓️ Trip Plans (1)
Most info from Rock Climb Marvin's Ear, Northwest Region (mountainproject.com)
Difficulty distribution
5.05.95.10P3 - 100'P1 - 100' P4 - 115'P2 - 90' P5 - 100' P6 - 115' P7 - 100'
Gear
- 70m rope (needed for rappel)
- 11 quickdraws (3-4 alpine)
- Walkie talkies?
Approach
This tower is BEFORE (to the right of) Mile High Club's tower.
Pitch 1 - 5.9, 100', 4 bolts
Scramble up to high first bolt with fun stemming on mostly good rock up high.
Pitch 2 - 5.10a, 90', 6 bolts
Edges and some slab moves more or less straight up from the belay. Mind the loose rock at end of pitch.
Pitch 3 - 5.0, 100', 1 bolt
Walk/scramble on ledges. Clip one bolt and scramble towards the anchor.
Pitch 4 - 5.9, 115', 9-10 bolts
Follow the bolts up the broad ridge
Pitch 5 - 10-, 100', 10 bolts
Follow bolts trending left towards the end of the pitch. Move past the first set of anchors (rap anchors) to the next set of bolts farther left. This will set you up the belay the following pitch. 100 feet (10 bolts)
Pitch 6 - 10b, 115', 9 bolts
Cruxy move over bulge leads to another cruxy section. Rope drag was an issue, but could be managed by extending a few draws.
Pitch 7 - 10-, 100', 9 bolts
Cool traverse left then up through a fun corner and to the anchor just below the summit.
Scramble to summit
Short scramble to the summit. Most will want to stay on belay for this section.