Disappointment Cleaver Route

16
Miles
9,000
Elevation Gain (ft)
14,411
Max Elevation (ft)
Class 3
Difficulty

The most popular route to the summit of Mount Rainier, offering a challenging but non-technical climb to Washington's highest peak.

Route Description

This classic mountaineering route begins at Paradise and follows the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir at 10,188 feet. From there, climbers navigate the Disappointment Cleaver, a rocky ridge that avoids the more technical ice climbing.

Best Season

Late May through September, with July and August offering the most stable conditions.

Required Gear

  • Mountaineering boots and crampons
  • Ice axe and helmet
  • Rope and glacier rescue equipment
  • Overnight gear for Camp Muir

Permits

Climbing permits are required and should be reserved well in advance during peak season.